Travel Tenerife

Santa Cruz, the capital of Tenerife, is one of the largest cities in Spain. It is the busiest port in the Canary Islands and the largest port in Spain for cruise ships. Many tourists prefer to take a cruise ship to Tenerife rather than fly in so that they can enjoy the waves and see the spectacular sight of Tenerife’s cliffs and shoreline as they approach.

Santa Cruz has enough attractions of all kinds to keep one busy for quite a long time! One of the most visually stunning sights you will see is the Tenerife Opera House, designed by Santiago Calatrave and completed in 2003. From a distance it resembles a large wave in the ocean curling over whitish-blue rollers; you can almost hear the roar of the ocean when you first catch sight of it. The Auditorium, as it is referred to, is the premier place for concerts and operas, with smaller rooms for other functions. It has hosted performances of Tenerife dance ensembles, jazz music from the world’s best performers and hosts the Tenerife Opera Festival. Each year it is home for the Canary Islands Music Festival, something you won’t want to miss.

Your eyes will also be drawn to the Santa Cruz Towers, the tallest buildings in the Islands. These twin towers are the highest residences in Spain, and house many of the families living on Tenerife. Nearby is the Tenerife Space of Arts, a contemporary museum, library and center for photography. You will notice the letters “TEA” on the building which stand for Tenerife Espacio de las Artes. TEA has a meeting hall, a public square, offices, a shop and a restaurant in addition to its fascinating exhibitions.

Santa Cruz is the yearly host to the Carnival, a week of reveling and uninhibited fun while the people take to the streets and party just before the season of Lent. The beautiful, elaborate costumes, the parades, the floats and daily performances of dance and other performing arts are part of the fun of Carnival. It is said that it rivals both Rio de Janeiro’s Carnival days and Mardi Gras in New Orleans.
If you like theatre, you’ll love the Teatro Guimera, the oldest theater in the Canary Islands. The theater was built in 1849 and the classical romance-style building opened its doors in 1851. Despite renovations and modifications through the years to keep it comfortable, structurally sound and suitable for public performances, it maintains its old world ambiance and charm. Here you will find the Canary Islands Music Festival, ballet, plays both ancient and modern, symphonies and other performing arts.

When you’ve had your fill of culture, why not take a trip to the Palmetum, a beautiful botanical garden divided into biogeographical sections? In addition to the over 400 species of palms, you’ll be walking through a peaceful haven of streams, ponds and waterfalls. Its manicured walkways take you to fantastic sights, one of which is El Octogono, a shade house that hosts the park’s most delicate inhabitants. In this octagon-shaped, half-sunken area you will walk paths that weave through habitats fed by more waterways. When you’re done enjoying the Palmetum you may want to visit the nearby Orchid Garden.

If you’d like to stretch out in the sun or play in the ocean, Playa de Las Teresitas is a short drive away. This beach has been specifically designed for residents and visitors who want to enjoy a day in the sand and surf. Its black sand was replaced with white sand from the Sahara desert and a breakwater was constructed to protect swimmers from the sometimes fierce waves of the Atlantic.

You won’t be at a loss for exciting shopping, either! No matter what part of the city you are staying in there are shopping centers, department stores and lovely little marketplaces where you can buy anything from designer goods to local craftsmanship and artistry. When you need a break you will find fast food restaurants, cafes and fine dining depending on your preferences. After a day of shopping you might want to get out and party at the pubs and discotheques scattered throughout the city and in the Marina Park.

Before you leave, make it a point to visit one of the many Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance styled churches in the city. Some date back as far as the 15th century; their stonework, statuary, stained glass and artwork are majestic beauty that you will never forget.

Santa Cruz is a delightful city with something for everyone!

Garachico, in northern Tenerife, is the least spoiled area on the island. It is very noncommercial; when you enter the town you might think you’ve traveled back in time. In fact, Garachico is so old worldly that very few people there speak English so if you don’t speak Spanish, take a phrase book.

The reason Garachico is so rustic and old fashioned is a string of bad luck that few areas have ever endured. The town has suffered through the Bubonic plague, storms, fires, swarms of locusts and floods. In 1706 Mt. Teide erupted for several weeks, pouring lava into the bay. It destroyed a lot of the town and ruined the town’s commerce. This little town may be one of the unluckiest places on earth but all that misfortune has kept it small, traditional and a wonderful example of life on Tenerife as it used to be—centered, relaxed and traditional.

Garachico might look a bit shabby at first glance. Many buildings need renovation; many are in the process but there are also some beautiful houses with courtyards nestled in among the narrow, cobbled streets. You may not notice many shops at first because most of them are hidden away, looking like private residences at first glace until they open and display their wares.

The big main square, La Libertad, is a tranquil, shaded place that features a bandstand with a bar underneath it. It is said to be the most beautiful public square on Tenerife. Next to the square is the Convent of San Francisco, a 16th century structure that gives tours for a small fee. From here you can also see the clock tower of the church of Santa Ana, which has a corn paste figure of Christ fashioned by the Tarasco Indians in the 16th century. There is also a splendid 17th century baptismal font. If you’re a shutterbug, you’ll quickly realize that there are no bad shots from La Libertad no matter which way you turn!

Not far from the square is a little garden, Puerta Tierra where you can see what the volcano left of the harbor. Nearby is a very old monastery that is open to the public. Most of the buildings have signs in German, Spanish and English that tell their history.

You’ll want to check out the Castillo de San Miguel, a small 16th century fort that was meant to guard the harbor from pirates. Garachico used to be the main port in Tenerife, exporting wine and produce before the eruption of 1706.

Not far from the fort you’ll find some beautiful natural rock pools that you can swim in. There really is no coastline to use as a beach due to all the rocks and volcanic debris but efforts have been made to improve the shoreline and there are many paths that have been laid. These natural pools are gorgeous in the sunshine; you’ll see brightly colored tropical fish darting in and out of the rocks. There is also a municipal swimming pool near the rock pools that you can enjoy. In the spring and fall the pools are cordoned off due to high tides.

Garachico has a couple of very good hotels and some excellent restaurants are hidden in the winding back streets. Aristides, for instance, is a family run restaurant that has the best chopitos (fried baby squid) and mussels on the island. You can plan on a leisurely meal because everything cooked to order with fresh ingredients. Service is slow but the food is exquisite. The eating establishments here are mostly family owned and run and they take great pride in the quality of their food and their cooking.

If you visit in August you’ll get to see the festival of San Roque, honoring the saint that saved the town from being totally destroyed by the Bubonic plague in 1606. The people dress in traditional costumes and doorways are decorated with baskets of fruit and flowers. Both oxen and people pull carts through the streets with their cargo of fruit, flowers and laughing children. Food and wine is given to spectators from the backs of some of the carts. Groups of musicians entertain along with singing and dancing parade participants. After the carts come floats pulled by oxen; atop the floats are more people who play guitars, sing, dance and pass out more food and wine. This mobile party is quite the sight and a wonderful experience!

Garachico should definitely have a place on your itinerary.

Puerto de la Cruz is the top resort in the Canary Islands, the most complete and longest established. Here you will find everything anyone could wish for! Tourists have been coming here for over a century to see the beautiful colonial architecture with narrow cobbled streets winding among the beautiful buildings in this old fishing port. It is unique for its beautiful central Old Town, where the locals still work, eat and drink unlike many tourist towns.

This beautiful city has not succumbed to ugly, commercialized architecture for the most part and retains its old world charm. The core consists of tree lined avenues, shaded plazas and many stairways leading to different levels.

In Puerto de la Cruz you will find accommodations to suit all budgets and tastes, from economy to luxury. The privately owned and managed hotels are the best since they take pride in their service. The larger, corporately owned hotels often have inferior food, shoddy service and lackluster housekeeping. Even some of the 4-star hotels are not worthy of their ranking. Although most restaurants are excellent, the ones frequented by locals are the best. If you have a beef, request an official complaints book which all bars, restaurants, hotels and café are required to have. Just asking for one will often remedy the situation, as it goes to an official agency that will investigate!

This wonderful city is also a shopper’s paradise, whose free port status allows imports from all over the world. There are hundreds of shops with good prices and all sorts of merchandise both designer and native. However, remember that while cheap doesn’t mean inferior the opposite is also true. Inspect before buying any items you purchase that are priced low enough to make you suspicious. Be wary of street vendors who often sell imitations instead of quality goods and by all means avoid the teeming time share sharks, not matter what fabulous prize they may claim you have won.

Puerto de la Cruz is home to La Carnaval, the little brother of the Carnaval of Santa Cruz. This huge before-Lent party is fantastic, complete with the Funeral of the Sardine that ends with some spectacular fireworks. There are several festivals that take place every month of the year and they are worth checking out once you set a date for your visit.

The city is replete with bars, discos and night clubs if you enjoy a night out. The streets are safe to walk at night here but take sensible precautions and lock your car; don’t leave anything of value visible. The best places to party are where you see the locals.

Historical buffs will enjoy exploring the Castillo de San Felipe (Old Port Castle), a 17th century fort that protected the town from pirates. There is also a nearby Cultural Arts Center which serves as a place for concerts, recitals and art exhibitions.

Puerto de la Cruz is home to the incomparable pools of Lago Martinez, a manmade series of beautiful bathing pools overlooking the beach. The huge artificial lake is surrounded by several smaller pools included some specifically built for children. You can lie on a chaise in the shade or enjoy the warm water and be waited on by the friendly staff. After a relaxing afternoon you may want to visit the Casino de Taoro, right next door. It is equipped with slot machines and gaming tables; it makes an exciting end to any day.

Another must-see is Loro Parque, or “Parrot Park”, an impressive zoo on the outskirts of the city. Here you can see 300 types of parrots, the largest collection in the world, as well as the world’s largest dolphin show pool and largest indoor penguin exhibit. It also boasts the longest shark tunnel that is in Europe and a wonderful Orca exhibit. You will see all the animals you expect here as well as a fabulous orchid garden. In your travels you may also want to check out Siam Park, the biggest water park in Europe built by the owners of Loro Parque on the south side of Tenerife.

If you enjoy museums, Puerto de la Cruz has plenty of them to keep you entertained and fascinated. The Archaeological Museum has a large collection of Guanche ceramics and even some mummies. There is a butterfly collection, weapons, ancient tools and a display of maps from the 1600’s. You may also want to stop into the Casa Iriarte, an 18th century home that now houses a lace museum, a naval museum and many interesting vintage photos of the city.

La Orotava is a town of about 36,000 people in the northern part of Tenerife. The first thing that strikes you as you approach the town is the beauty of the countryside and the slopes covered with banana trees and vineyards. This is one of five wine producing regions of Tenerife, with about 2,500 acres of grapes. In the early days of settlement they also grew sugar; many fortunes were made in those days, establishing the town and setting the stage for its prosperity today. The valley is a cornucopia of fresh fruits and vegetables and the red wine they produce is superb.

Although La Orotava isn’t a bustling metropolis, there is plenty to see and do in and around the town. One of the most popular attractions is the Hijuela del Botanico, a botanical garden with thousands of species from Spain, Australia, Asia, the Americas and Africa. You will also see hundreds of the dragon trees the island is famous for, their gnarly trunks rising to a green crown. Some have said they resemble mushrooms; others have compared them to umbrellas but whatever you think they look like, they are majestic and oddly beautiful.

From there, if you haven’t already, you may want to go to Mirador de Humboldt. This scenic view is truly spectacular and offers you a panoramic look at nearly the entire valley. Situated high in the hills surrounding La Orotava, you’ll be able to look down at the town and green countryside as if you’re standing in the clouds. There are a few shelters there if you’d like to take a picnic lunch while you enjoy the scenery. You’ll also have a wonderful vantage point to see Mt. Teide, Tenerife’s volcano that has been inactive for more than a century.

La Orotava offers guided tours of the small city, too. Most tours like to start with Casa de los Balcones, a journey through a group of Canarian houses with balconies. You’ll be able to walk through beautiful inner courtyards and enjoy views of the valley. Casa Mendez-Fonseca is particularly impressive and has a strange little museum upstairs plus local wine tasting.

Like other cities on the island, La Orotava has lots of churches and monasteries. Iglesia de la Concepcion is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture with its twin towers and impressive dome. You’ll want to photograph this beauty but as well as a daytime picture you should wait until dusk or shortly after when the dome is lit from beneath. It’s a stunning sight with the maroon sky as a backdrop.Stop by and see Iglesia de San Agustin, a fine example of Baroque architecture.

You’ll also enjoy the formal Victoria Gardens, whose walking paths wind through a riot of colors and textures lent by the thousands of flowers and other plants. Equally impressive is the Carrara marble mausoleum designed by architect Adolph Coquet in 1882. Never used as a tomb, the beautiful white marble has stately carved columns and niches and looks almost like a dignified miniature mansion.

Other places of interest include the municipal palace, El Ayuntamiento, which offers tours to those interested. There is a wax museum and several 17th century homes you can explore. The Museo de Ceramica has nearly a thousand pieces of pottery scattered throughout the huge charming mansion that houses the collection. Museo de Artesania Iberoamerica is located in a Dominican convent and has crafts from Spain and Latin America on display.

If you visit La Orotava in June you’ll get to take part in the Feast of Corpus Christi. For this festival the streets are covered with carpets of flowers, as is the town hall. The Guinness Book of Records recorded its tapestry of colored soil, sand and flowers as the biggest of its kind in the world.

Nightlife in La Orotava is not completely absent but is largely hotel based. There are a few bars scattered throughout the town but most people have a few quiet drinks in the bars or restaurants of their hotels. If you crave more excitement in your evenings, you can go to the nearby resort of Puerto de la Cruz where you’ll find vibrant crowds and plenty of noise!

La Orotava is not a shore side town but does have a few small beaches. These small, secluded black sand coves are not crowded with tourists and great places to go for some quiet sun and a dip in the ocean. Some can be reached by car but most are accessible only by foot. El Bollullo, El Cancon and Martin Alonso are three of the most easily reached. A fourth, Los Patos, is a beach where clothing is optional!

San Cristobal de La Laguna, the main city in north Tenerife, is generally referred to as La Laguna. It derives its name from a large lagoon that suffered a size reduction due to the logging industry and was finally drained in 1837. La Laguna was the capital of Tenerife until 1723. Nestled in the beautiful Aguere Valley, this historic gem is surrounded by lush green hills and farmland

La Laguna has what is probably the most ideal temperature range you’ll ever find; in summer the maximum is 70° and in winter it seldom dips below 55°. It’s as if the city enjoys springtime all year! And thanks to losing its status as the island’s capital the city retains its old world charm and architecture, mixing the old with the new.

This was the first city in the world built on a geometric grid; you’ll find it very easy to navigate by foot, taxi, bikes or rental car. There is a tram line linking the city to Santa Cruz, just a few miles away, if you want to spend part of a day there.

La Laguna’s local tourist office provides free guided tours, which would be a good place to start when you visit. You’ll get to see the main sights and pick out the ones that you want to investigate in more detail. Such an approach actually saves you a lot of time—and it’s free! You’ll notice that several streets of historical significance are closed to motor traffic so you can stroll freely and safely.

La Laguna is known as the cultural and religious center of the Canary Islands. You’ll notice many old churches on your tour through the city, all of them worth a second look. These and other aspects of the city resulted in its being declared a World Heritage Site in 1999. The most famous churches are The Cathedral, the Santo Domingo Church and the Church of Nuestra Senora de la Concepcion. The latter has a magnificent Mudejar carved wood ceiling and a Baroque wooden pulpit form the 18th century. It is the oldest church on the island and officially a Spanish national shrine. Another must-see is the Convent of Santa Catalina, built in 1611. Although very austere on the outside, the interior is stunning.

The recently restored bishop’s palace, Casa de Salazar, is another sight worth seeing. Built in 1681, it is said to be the finest architecture of the Canary Islands. The interior was destroyed by a fire in 2006 but has been rebuilt as faithfully as possible to the original layout, built around a patio whose pillars supported its soaring galleries.

La Laguna is also home to San Fernando University. The 30,000 students lend the city vibrancy and diversity. With all this youth as residents the night life is predictably unpredictable. The university zone has one of the best nightlife scenes on the island with more than 100 bars and pubs jammed together in a zone called “cuadrilatero”. There are other discos and lounges in the city but nowhere will you find such riotous partying.

Near the university is Parque de los Dragos, a beautiful park with an astounding collection of dragon trees, the official symbol of the island and a main player in its legends.

Those who enjoy museums have a good variety here in La Laguna. There is the Casa Ossuna Museum, Friends of the Country Economic Society Museum, Concepcion Church’s Museum and the Cathedral’s Museum. The Historical and Anthropology museum is great if you want to learn a thorough history of the island and its inhabitants; it is housed in the lovely old mansion Casa Lercaro, a 16th century colonial that houses displays of documents, maps, tools, maritime exhibits and Lercaro family artifacts. There are also a fair number of 16th century paintings.

The Cosmos and Science Museum specializes in hands-on exhibits and is known for its excellent planetarium. There you can learn about the human body, man’s relationship with the earth and the earth’s with the universe. You can even take a lie detector test.

And then there are all the physical activities you can do! The Anaga Mountains that surround the city are a hiker’s haven with paths ranging from easy to extremely difficult. Or you can visit the Arenisco beach with its black volcanic sand and moderate waves that make it ideal for swimming, surfing, snorkeling and fishing. There is also a campsite at the beach if you’d like to drift off to sleep listening to the music of the water.

There are festivals, a casino, live theatre and much more to see and experience in La Laguna. The city truly is the gem of the Canary Islands.