Garachico, in northern Tenerife, is the least spoiled area on the island. It is very noncommercial; when you enter the town you might think you’ve traveled back in time. In fact, Garachico is so old worldly that very few people there speak English so if you don’t speak Spanish, take a phrase book.
The reason Garachico is so rustic and old fashioned is a string of bad luck that few areas have ever endured. The town has suffered through the Bubonic plague, storms, fires, swarms of locusts and floods. In 1706 Mt. Teide erupted for several weeks, pouring lava into the bay. It destroyed a lot of the town and ruined the town’s commerce. This little town may be one of the unluckiest places on earth but all that misfortune has kept it small, traditional and a wonderful example of life on Tenerife as it used to be—centered, relaxed and traditional.
Garachico might look a bit shabby at first glance. Many buildings need renovation; many are in the process but there are also some beautiful houses with courtyards nestled in among the narrow, cobbled streets. You may not notice many shops at first because most of them are hidden away, looking like private residences at first glace until they open and display their wares.
The big main square, La Libertad, is a tranquil, shaded place that features a bandstand with a bar underneath it. It is said to be the most beautiful public square on Tenerife. Next to the square is the Convent of San Francisco, a 16th century structure that gives tours for a small fee. From here you can also see the clock tower of the church of Santa Ana, which has a corn paste figure of Christ fashioned by the Tarasco Indians in the 16th century. There is also a splendid 17th century baptismal font. If you’re a shutterbug, you’ll quickly realize that there are no bad shots from La Libertad no matter which way you turn!
Not far from the square is a little garden, Puerta Tierra where you can see what the volcano left of the harbor. Nearby is a very old monastery that is open to the public. Most of the buildings have signs in German, Spanish and English that tell their history.
You’ll want to check out the Castillo de San Miguel, a small 16th century fort that was meant to guard the harbor from pirates. Garachico used to be the main port in Tenerife, exporting wine and produce before the eruption of 1706.
Not far from the fort you’ll find some beautiful natural rock pools that you can swim in. There really is no coastline to use as a beach due to all the rocks and volcanic debris but efforts have been made to improve the shoreline and there are many paths that have been laid. These natural pools are gorgeous in the sunshine; you’ll see brightly colored tropical fish darting in and out of the rocks. There is also a municipal swimming pool near the rock pools that you can enjoy. In the spring and fall the pools are cordoned off due to high tides.
Garachico has a couple of very good hotels and some excellent restaurants are hidden in the winding back streets. Aristides, for instance, is a family run restaurant that has the best chopitos (fried baby squid) and mussels on the island. You can plan on a leisurely meal because everything cooked to order with fresh ingredients. Service is slow but the food is exquisite. The eating establishments here are mostly family owned and run and they take great pride in the quality of their food and their cooking.
If you visit in August you’ll get to see the festival of San Roque, honoring the saint that saved the town from being totally destroyed by the Bubonic plague in 1606. The people dress in traditional costumes and doorways are decorated with baskets of fruit and flowers. Both oxen and people pull carts through the streets with their cargo of fruit, flowers and laughing children. Food and wine is given to spectators from the backs of some of the carts. Groups of musicians entertain along with singing and dancing parade participants. After the carts come floats pulled by oxen; atop the floats are more people who play guitars, sing, dance and pass out more food and wine. This mobile party is quite the sight and a wonderful experience!
Garachico should definitely have a place on your itinerary.